The Copenhagen Report

I can't resist one more strawberry post. Even if not too much needs to be said that hasn't been already. That is, it seems to me to be one of the best strawberry harvests in years.

Because not everything can be grown in Denmark, owing to the relatively short growing season in comparison to our more southern neighbours, and given that the quality of what is grown is greatly affected by the whims of the wacky weather in this part of the world, somehow there's an extra excitement when there's a bumper crop of one crop or another in Denmark - and especially in the case of strawberries.

Yummmmm!!!

Something I've been after for quite some time is some statistics on the birth rate in Denmark, which I finally stumbled upon at www.populationeurope.com.

You see, I'm curious because although the endless talk in the media across Europe, when it comes to population, is about how the population in basically every European country is set to drop owing to ever declining birthrates (not taking into account immigration, of course), I've long been wondered how this could be true of Denmark.

After all, there is a seemingly endless parade of kids running around Copenhagen with their parents (or getting pushed around in baby carriages). To put it more bluntly, in Copenhagen BABIES AND YOUNG CHILDREN ARE EVERYWHERE! I've never seen anything like it in any other major city. Anywhere.

And if it is like this all over urban Copenhagen, where the birthrate should be at the lowest relative to smaller cities and more rural areas, how must the birthrate be in the rest of the country? Which has lead me to wonder how Denmark could possibly be suffering from the same declining birthrate trend that is so much talked about?

If you want to download your own detailed copy detailing the current demographic trends across Europe (including non-EU countries), you can do so here. It makes for interesting reading - I learned a few things.

Firstly, Denmark with a birth rate in 2004 of 1.78 children per woman (which when statistical manipulated for complex reasons best summed up as 'because sometimes it's necessary' becomes 2.0 children per woman). That's pretty close to that magic 2.1 replacement number, so often talked about. It is also a number well above the EU-25 country average birth rate of 1.5 children per woman (or, if you prefer the statistically adjusted European average of 1.67).

Secondly, of the more developed European countries, only France and Ireland have a higher birthrate - with Sweden, Norway, Finland and the Netherlands almost at the same level as Denmark. Funny isn't it, that all the so-called 'socialist' countries have such a high birthrate? Ireland being the exception, a non-socialist country, likely has it's own explanation - it is still catching up economically with the leading countries in Europe, and has had a historically high birthrate - one that has been dropping radically over the last years, so expect it to leave the 'high birthrate club' very shortly.

Thirdly, and this is rather significant, since 1990 Denmark's birth rate as increased (from 1.67 to 1.78). Only France, the Netherlands and Finland have experienced an increase in birth rates over this time, the rest of the developed European countries have seen a decrease.

Finally, and purely out of interest, the average age at birth of mothers in Denmark was 28.4 years old (in 2004).

I've long noted on this blog (for example, here) that Denmark is a pretty good place to have kids. And there are reasons for this. Unlike in many countries, there is thankfully NO stigma, or undue 'pressure', a woman feels for getting pregant before finishing her studies and establishing a career (or for being pregnant but not being married). Before she has a steady job, regular salary and a ring on her finger, if you prefer.

Because in Denmark, sensibly, it is assumed that as long as you support such studying mothers (and, of course, make sure the father's pay their bit as well), they'll surely manage to establish a solid career in due time - once they are able to put the kids into daycare (usually after about a year) and get their studies finished. It doesn't really matter if there is a husband, or equally as likely in Denmark - a boyfriend, at home - it's assumed these young mothers will generally do just fine regardless. And by in large they do.

Funny that - a few other countries could surely learn a thing or two from this simple but effective approach.

In fact, you might be saying to yourself, that it seems like a simple and screamingly obvious way to raise a declining birth rate, doesn't it? Especially if you are a government that professes to care about such things, as many claim to. It takes a solid daycare system, as Denmark has, and the assurance that mothers will receive an adequate level of social support while they are caring for their babies.

Because in the long run these mothers will more than pay that support back in taxes - and if they somehow don't (yes, highly unlikely...), well, their kids surely will. So it's a pretty safe assumption to make. And you want them to succeed for exactly this reason.

Because when you imply (by offering wholely inadequate support) that young mothers who are single, or at least haven't quite established a career, are stupid for getting pregnant so young - and leave them to suffer for it - well, in the end everybody suffers from this approach, don't they?

By: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)



Once you’ve had a great Phad Thai – the classic of classic Thai (noodle) dishes - there’s no going back.

Personally, as a consequence of some travels in Southest Asia and an extended stay in Shanghai last year - home of a number of excellent Thai restaurants – I’ve been left craving a certain and specific version of Phad Thai that has proven rather challenging to find in Copenhagen. One with a certain and elusive combination of flavours, texture and spiciness.

That is, until a recent visit to Sweet Basil (danish link) in the center of Copenhagen (Grønnegade 33, tel: 33151565).

There are a fair number of Thai restaurants in Copenhagen, and some of them are quite good. In true Thai street food fashion, the best of them I've tried are actually take-out joints.

Probably Lai-Thai (Toldbodgade 2 - at the bottom of Nyhavn) would be the best, with a fairly close second place going to Thaiherb 2 (Fiolstraede 30, near Norreport). For something more leisurely then take-away, a few of my friends can’t seem to get enough of the Phad Thai at Thai Esan (just off Istedgade close to the main station).

Before I go further, allow me a brief Phad Thai digression.

Although every respectable Thai restaurant has a version of Phad Thai on the menu, there is no such thing as a ‘correct’ or ‘perfect’ Phad Thai. Each and every Thai cook, each and every Thai restaurant, and for that matter each and every Thai street stall - whether in Bangkok, elsewhere in Thailand, or someplace else in the world - make it just a little bit differently. Which is why Phad Thai - amongst countless classic national dishes in the world - is such an endlessly fascinating dish to taste at countless Thai restaurants. Each has their own take on the combination of hot, sour, salty and sweet - the fundamental four elements of Thai dishes - that should be used in it.



And hence why, if you are a person with an appreciation for Thai food, finding just the right version of your favourite Thai dishes to suit your tastes can be quite a preoccupation.

Sometimes Phad Thai can be outright spicy, still other times it can be rather sweet. Sometimes it’s made with thick rice noodles, sometimes thin ones (yes, in Thailand there are specific names for each of these dishes, but Thai restaurants outside of Thailand don’t typically get down to such specifics).

Though it isn’t always, Phad Thai should be served with a slice of lime - which when drizzled over top of a steaming Phad Thai brings the flavourful ingredients to life on your tongue, as few things can. To their credit, at Sweet Basil they did. I’ve seen Phad Thai served with a small bowl of sugar and a small bowl of dried crushed chillis, useful if you prefer your food on the slightly picante side, as I often do. As it was at Sweet Basil, it’s also often served with some uncooked sprouts on the side and a bowl of crushed cashew nuts, both of which, when mixed in, add that extra and highly satisfying crunch that is characteristic of so many great Thai dishes.

Indeed, the food at Sweet Basil was outstanding, though the service was not quite so.

Our waitress was lovely, pleasant and somewhat hopeless. When you pay 75 kroner for a premium beer, and it arrives just a notch below room temperature, as a waitress the way to resolve this situation is to offer another beer immediately (making sure it is really cold). It is NOT to say, ‘but it came from the same fridge as all the others – it’s been their since yesterday’. Because clearly it hadn’t, we noted as she wandered away.

But the outstanding food, which took quite some time to arrive, quickly outshone the issues we had with the lousy service, and left us in a rather forgiving mood. The other dishes ordered, classic Thai curries and spring rolls, were equally commendable.


'Thai minimalism' - minimalism with a touch of kitsch

Thai restaurants are normally rather distinct in appearance, and often for all the wrong reasons. The word ‘kitsch’ springs to mind. Budda’s and colourful junk everywhere, along with vegetation not unlike a forest floor.

Sweet Basil is different, much to the owner's credit, apparently espousing an esthetic which could perhaps be termed ‘Thai minimalism’. In other words, not quite minimal, as some tacky adornments are allowed to remain, but they are kept fairly scarce in quantity.

But how wonderful to discover there is another Thai restaurant in Copenhagen serving authentic Thai food worthy of it's hallowed and well-deserved international stature. We shall certainly return.

This years line-up for the annual Roskilde Festival is looking pretty good. It's likely not the best ever, but it's pretty solid. A nice mix of the tried and true alongside the untested and new. And with the release of the daily program yesterday, the final countdown is now on.

Myself, I've seen The Red Hot Chilli Peppers (outstanding performance), Bjork (memorable) and Basement Jaxx (great to dance along to) performing at Roskilde before. This year among the biggest names, The Who should be a treat, and perhaps the Beastie Boys, as well. The two I'm most anticipating are The Killers and The Sounds. Arcade Fire (from my home country Canada) should be very good along with Trentemøller (to throw in a bit of Danish content).

And there are plenty of diversity amongst the lesser-knowns, which suggests plenty of potential to surprise, which is generally what separates the good Festivals from the great ones. Pleasant surprises always happen wandering from concert to concert.

Oh, and the Roskilde Festival also happens to be sold out (once again). That's 75,000 tickets, I believe. So if you want to go and you haven't got your ticket already, well, you're probably going to have to be creative to get one (or fork over a lot of money). If you're determined enough, there's always a way to get there for free. There's something like 10,000 volunteers doing a variety of job - from glorious to gruesome - the general agreement is for you work 3 x 8 hour shifts, and for that get into the festival for free. The range of jobs I've known people to have run from being the mc introducing the bands on one of the stages (what more could you want?) to cleaning washrooms (yes, I'd sooner pay for the ticket twice over...). Stage security at one of the smaller stages is also a good one, and the classic (and perhaps most common) job of working at one of the take-out stands is never a bad deal.

And the best thing of all about going to Roskilde Festival, aside from the music, is avoiding that horrible feeling of regret that tends to hit the week of the festival when Copenhagen's bars and clubs become oddly quiet. And plenty of grubby but excited individuals with backpacks and boomboxes can be seen at the train stations all across Copenhagen.

So finally the truth comes out. One of the most seemingly inconsistent positions staked out by the Danish government in recent years has been its unwavering support for the Iraq war. Though the mainstream media in Denmark was by-in-large too cowardly to shout it, anybody who spent a few minutes thinking about it (or doing a bit of internet surfing) could easily figure out just why the Danish government opted to unconditionally support the American crusade, and continue to do so.

The answer was and is Denmark's largest company, Maersk.

Shipping giant Maersk had signed contracts with the American military before the war in Iraq was even declared. Now, at last, the value of these contracts over the last few years have come out. And the numbers are huge.

Seems dear old Maersk signed contracts with the American Defence Department totalling some 17 billion kroner (2.3 billion euro). That's a rather staggering amount.

No wonder those questionning the Danish government's loyal support of the Americans stood little chance of swaying the decision-makers. Questions surely would have been raised, in Denmark and elsewhere, if Maersk was reaping such profits from a war that the Danish government was officially against.

And that's not all.

According to American records, orders from the American Defence Department made up 97.2 percent of all the American government's contracts with Danish businesses. If the Americans had decided to direct this business elsewhere, Danish business, or more precisely Danish military suppliers (essentially Maersk, though there are others) would have suffered dearly.

Besides, it's so easy to profit from an invasion of a country that you know so little about. And such a comfort to know that once you're done making your money there, you'll be able to return to the comfy confines of your home, with nary a worry about the consequences your actions will have had on the lives of those actually living there. Let them pick up the pieces.

An evil Canadian seal pup killer hard at work...

I'm not really in favour of killing baby seals either, but one must wonder what exactly one should do in order to follow the instuctions given on these posters that have been stuck-up randomly around Copenhagen for the last three or four months ('Boycott Canada').

Maybe stop putting maple syrup on your pancakes? Or stop buying albums of the horrendously bad French-Canadian singer who once represented Switzerland in the Eurovision song contest? I'm running out of ideas now...

I'm not really sure who is responsible for them, but I'm sure these posters are making a big difference. Really.

Ah, I've got it! I don't know why I didn't think of it before. As I really am against the killing of baby seals, from this day forward, I vow never again to succumb to tempation and order another succulent McSealpup Sandwich, or similarly named menu item, from any well-known and less-known fast-food chain anywhere in the world (especially in Canada). I think I can manage that. And I guess the sealskin boots will also have to go...

Which suddenly makes me think of this classic Simpsons clip.

The fickle weather of Denmark means that one never really knows from day to day, month to month, and - in the case of spring crops like strawberries - one year to the next, just how things are going to be. Enough sun in the spring will lead to a bumper crop of sweet strawberries ready for harvesting in early June. Not enough sun (all too often in this cloudy country) will leave them a bit sour and behind schedule.

This spring, with the strawberry season upon us thanks to all the sunny warm weather, there is nothing to worry about. The strawberries are sweet and there is no shortable of them. And they're being harvested even earlier than usual this year - the season has been going strong for about 3 weeks now.

Hence all the delicious strawberry tarts for sale these days (and even tastier homemade ones, like this one...).

By: Tim Anderson (mailto:timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)



On a sunny summer day, you could do much worse than slugging back a couple bottles of brew reclined in the sun at Cafe Halvanden. Especially on a Friday after work. It's been around for about 4 years now, just off the beaten path. But it's one of those place to go, if you're in the know. From Nyhavn, if you look over the channel to the left (past the Opera House), you can see it in the distance - the building with 'CAFE' written in huge black letters.

Copenhagen is definitely short on true beach bars - complete with sand and set on the water - so Cafe Halvanden fills a real gap in the scene, in that respect. It's bit of a bike ride from Christianshavn (or a short car ride). Of course, if you happen to have access to a boat, well, there's no better way to arrive in style.

My only complaint: what sort of beach bar doesn't serve Corona (with a lime, naturally)? While there certainly are alternatives, there really is no substitute on a hot and sunny afternoon. It can even cure a hangover.


yours truly, arriving in style (with bicycle in tow)...


just kick back on the beds and chill...


ironically, a traditional Danish thatched straw roof also happens to create a wonderful Caribbean sort of vibe...


as does a bit of sand on the ground...

Though I'm fortunately not a person who has to ride the trains on a daily basis in and around Copenhagen, I am still fairly confident when I say that in Denmark, DSB, the Danish train operator, is one of the better train operators out there. The trains generally run on time, their schedules are all coordinated so making connections is generally very simple, and they seriously can get you pretty much everywhere you need to be in Denmark (at least when coupled with a bus connection at the end of the line in the case of the more remote places you're trying to reach).

Case in point: I've never lived in a country, or even heard of a country, where you can take public transportation to reach an off-the-beaten path summerhouse. But I've been able to do it to get to more than one summerhouse in Denmark.

Anyway, the latest addition, is the ability to see where your train is on a GPS maps displayed as part of the timetable displays at many stations, which I suppose could be nice to know if it's running late. Not that it will help you get to where you want to be any faster, if they are late, of course.

So much for this weeks show - the Modest Mouse concert at Vega, which was supposed to happen tomorrow night, has been rescheduled to July 2. Just a couple weeks a way, so it certainly could have been much worse. (For instance, when exactly will that Feist concert that was cancelled some time ago, apparently to be rescheduled, reappear on the upcoming shows list...I'm not holding out much hope given her tour schedule on her website is looking pretty full for quite some time.)

Still, discovering that a concert you have been looking forward to has been postponed is always such a disappointment.

Editor's Note (added later): Here's the review from the Copenhagen concert that finally happened. And the Copenhagen Feist concert has now been rescheduled for Oct. 1.

by: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)


The Nørrebro street party that knew no end...

Though I missed most of the Distortion Festival (summerhouse trip...), I made it out to a pretty cool Distortion evening in Nørrebro on the second evening. Thank goodness I did.

It turned into a true street party, a real happening (as Isabel from Eyes Wide Shut put it perfectly - Isabel, whom I just last week had the pleasure of meeting and hanging out on Thursday at Distortion, writes some great stuff over at her blog and takes fantastic pictures that tend to put mine to shame). She has some great pics from Thursday on her blog, quite unlike crappy ones I managed on my phone...


the sound of street music...

So I'll add my own two cents kroner. It's stuff like the collective planned events and semi-planned happenings that make the Distortion Festival the one-of-a-kind event that is is, and this sort of stuff is also precisely what make Copenhagen such a great place to live, because it is precisely this that sets the city a lifetime apart from most other more staid and conservative places. It's this esoteric ability that enough people in Denmark seem to understand, about what makes a great vibe and how to create it - and they are actually permitted to do so. It makes all the difference. I've written about it before (for example here).

On Thursday the Distortion street party in Nørrebro was supposed to end at midnight. However the Copenhagen police, in a remarkable show of sensitivity (that they don't always show in other situations when it is surely called for), opted to simply close the street to traffic, where it all was happening, after a while. And the shop responsible for the music (who did a fantastic job all night) decided to keep it pumping way past the time it was supposed to end, which was midnight, and so the street party went on to around 3AM. They also opted to keep on selling beer...

There was also the Official Distortion Party Bus, well worth a mention here. Whoever the f&*king genius was who found the busdriver for that one (pictured below), give them a good hardy pat on the back (and maybe a raise and a key to the city). Too f*%king perfect.



So on we hopped, not knowing where it would take us (which proved to be just around the corner to the next party - but it was just so much more fun then walking ever would have been, anyway). Onboard, music blared, people danced, and beer was drank. I can assure you that if such a thing ever was to occur in my home and native land of Canada, the bus would have been immediately impounded and the organizers arrested (yes, another answer snippet from the often posed question 'why did you choose to live in Denmark instead of Canada?'). But this is Denmark, a more sensible place, at least in relation to these sorts of issues.

I've seen it happen again and again over the years in Copenhagen. It's actually possible to create a public, or semi-public, event with spirit by actually allowing it to take on a life of it's own as it's happening - which is true in so relatively few places in the world. Because all too often, when something cool starts happening, it is forced to end prematurely for one silly reason or another.

See, because spirit is not a tangible thing, those who don't get it should never be in charge of staging events - and they definitely shouldn't be in charge of regulating them. Fortunately, such people have been kept well away from the Distortion Festival in Copenhagen.


A happy Distortion street partier indulging in the unofficial food of the Distortion Festival - the schwarma.

by: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)



How many times do I have to say it: I love midweek concerts.

Balkan Beat Box arrived on stage at Rust in Copenhagen last Wednesday evening (taking a route straight through the packed crowd as they played the first song of the evening, pounding away on drums and saxophones). It certainly set the tone for the show.



I'm a bit late with the review on this one, so I'll just keep in brief by saying a couple things.

Firstly, check out their myspace page for an idea of what they're all about, but be warned the tracks you'll here there sound rather tame and hardly representative of the unwavering on-stage energy these guys put out for the entire duration of their performance. I for one didn't stop moving the entire show.

Secondly, when you notice that the band's sound guy - an individual who has surely watched countless performances of the same songs - just can't stop bouncing along with the band, well, you know that this is a band that's got something special to offer.

Though I'm certainly not a photographer (and I certainly don't have a expensive camera), every now and then I get lucky and manage to take a shot or two that captures a moment in a way that almost matches how it was. Like this one during last nights distinctly colourful sunset, as the clouds rolled in and the sky briefly turned a distinct deep blue as darkness fell over Copenhagen.

no shortage of street level promotion around town...

It's become something of an annual institution in Copenhagen, The Distortion Festival. A 5-day extravaganza of fantastic underground electronic music. And it all starts tomorrow evening.

It's also a classy demonstration (clothed in wonderfully trashy garmets) of just how to keep what has now (after 9 years) become a gigantic, hyped and much-talked about annual festival, as uncommercialised and underground as possible.

The formula remains pretty simple. While the promotional efforts are fairly intense, the line-up can never be accused of being even the slightest bit mainstream. During the festival each year, no venue gets used more then once, and each night, the events of that evening are concentrated into a different area of Copenhagen.

I've had some excellent Distortion evenings evenings over the years - one of the best was three years ago at Halvandet, which I mention as this year, this also happens to be the venue for Distortion's big Saturday night party. That's promising.

And I'm looking forward to wandering around Nørrebro on Thursday night to check out the local Distortion events of the evening - just a short stroll from my flat. I'm sure they'll be some good stuff...

Check out http://www.myspace.com/cphdistortion for more info.

'These Danes don't really know how to dance to this, do they?'
'No, but they are smiling and cheering...'

This past weekend, as each year on this final weekend of May, come rain or shine the Copenhagen Karnival happens at Faelledparken in Østerbro.

Now let's be straight about things - Copenhagen ain't, has never been, and will never be, Rio De Janeiro. Because Denmark just ain't Brazil. Maybe that's why they spell carnival with a 'K' in Copenhagen. But for a brief 48 hours, here in Copenhagen, a bunch of people try really hard to simulate something akin to the carnival atmosphere from some latin country. Which is no easy feat. So obviously the result, well okay, it doesn't quite compare, but given the latitude and longitude coordinates of Denmark, well, it's not such a bad attempt.


maybe to cold for shorts and t-shirts, but still fun to see for a short while...

I've been to quite a number of carnival's Karnival's over the years in Copenhagen. They don't really change that much from year to year, but they are fun to wander around for a while. Because it's one of the rare moments when you will find vast numbers of people of diverse nationalities coming out and having fun. It creates an excellent spirit. These are people whom, frankly, you rarely see (at least in such numbers) on the streets of Copenhagen (which is really a shame). In fact, I am amazed each year during the Karnival to discover that Copenhagen actually has such a volume of diverse nationalities.

As for what actually happens at the Karnival - the entertainment - well, there's always a bunch of Latin American and African inspired dancing, drumming, singing and so forth performed by a bunch of people who, by in large, have no direct descendants from any of these areas of the world.


one, two, three, four, bang, bang, bang...come on white boys!!

There's also all the typical low-tech, mobile entertainment you would expect to find - nearly unwinnable games with cheap prizes that in themselves barely justify the cost of playing. Bumper cars, spinning rides and so forth. And lot's of simple and not terribly heathly, but rather tasty food. Especially if you happen to have had a big night of drinking the night previous...


'And would you like them with ice cream and sugar?'
'But of course!!'

And dancing. It's pretty much the only event in Copenhagen, and perhaps Denmark, where you will see families and kids just dancing for the sake of dancing around in public, rather uninhibited.


'Let's dance!'


'hello there!'

It's a lot of sights and sounds that one just doesn't come across during day to day life here in the city. Except for this one weekend each year. Which is the main reason why most years I normally try drop by for an hour or two when it is happening, just as I did this year.

Now that I've got my own tickets safely in hand before the show sells out (and I highly suspect it will), I think it's a good time to mention that Modest Mouse is playing at Vega in Copenhagen June 13. These guys are definitely well worth seeing. It's kind of a shame they didn't wait a couple weeks and just play at the Roskilde Festival instead, but no matter, I'll cough up the dough to go see them anyway.

Check out their myspace page for some songs from their current album We Were Dead Before The Ship Even Sank.

And here's the funky little video for 'Float On', from their previous album. It's a song I really love, though I think I'd have to single out 'Black Cadillacs' as my favourite on that album. Their newest albums seems to be standing the test of time fairly well, as well...

by: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)


'You destroyed our party-house quite some time ago and we want...um, well, uh...to protest that it wasn't really a nice thing that you did'

Wandering home yesterday evening, I came across this week's Ungdomshuset protest. They happen every Thursday, so it's not that novel. Still, it was mildly amusing to watch for a short while.


'now class, after today's lesson on how to stage an effective demonstration, for homework I'd like you to go give it a try...'

I have mixed views on these protests. On one hand, I really like the spirit of the ongoing demonstrations in the name of the now demolished Ungdomshuset ('Youth House') in Copenhagen . I like that there is a group of young people still standing up and making noise about what happened - not necessarily because I think the government was entirely without rights to do what they did - there was a justification for kicking the inhabitants out of the building and allowing the new owners who had bought the place some time back to demolish the place.

However I also think it was a boneheaded move on the government's part - one that pretty much anybody knew would create a backlash resulting in more reoccurring trouble than it was worth.

Because Ungdomshuset was an outlet and a symbol. And it still is. It's not like most regularly frequented the place. In choosing to target a symbol, the government was asking for a backlash. It's not like your average 14 to 16 year old (the average age of the protesters, these days) typically has more pressing matters to attend to on any given Thursday evening. Rather, the demonstrations are cheap entertainment for them and a chance to hang out with their friends.


if you missed it this week, feel free to join next Thursday...

I especially love the 'Jagtvej' stickers, designed to look like street signs, that have been stuck on countless street signs all around Copenhagen ('Jagtvej being the street where Ungdomshuset was located on). But then I've always had a soft spot for clever street art, cultural spamming, ad hacking and so forth.


'it's easy to get to our place - just go down Jagtvej until you get to Jagtvej, turn left, then take your next left on Jagtvej, continue 100m to Jagtvej, then take another left when you come to Jagtvej...'

I also find it amusing that the police take these protests so seriously - it really encourages the dissenters to keep staging them - but then again, just like the young protesters, it's not like the police in Copenhagen have that much else to do that is more pressing, most of the time. At least the police don't wander around the entire time with their riot helmets on - they just keep them close by at their side.



On the other hand, one must also acknowledge that it's really just protest for the sake of protest. There is nothing the government will ever realistically do that would or could satisfy the supposed demands of those protesting. Personally, I hope the protesters eventually just find another venue - persumably a somewhat derelict place - to call their own and start staging events there. Just as they did at the old Ungdomshuset.

Anyway, perhaps my favourite moment, in watching today's protest, was watching a handful of protesters following around a few rather obvious plain-clothes policemen (obvious, since they were wearing very visible ear-pieces) with a big sign that said 'civil betjent ('civilian officer'). After a while, the police couldn't resist grabbing the sign, breaking it in two, and slapping one of the guys holding it with a fine. Surely an overreaction on their part, but like said, they're also pretty bored most of the time.

The Ungdomshuset protests will eventually taper off and stop, but not for some time yet.

'l'm going to give this plain clothes officer a hard time'


'And for giving us a hard time, we'll give you a fine! How do you like that?'...

Normally a little late when it comes to international film releases, Pirates of the Caribbean - At World's End opened yesterday in Denmark, for once in line with it's release elsewhere around the world. All to often there are long delays from when major international films are first released in the U.S., Canada, and the UK, before they finally make it to Denmark (almost as if the major film companies are tacitly endorsing illegal downloading in Denmark...).

Anyway, we went this evening - I don't need to say much about the film, you know basically what to expect if you've seen the first two - and who hasn't? Because let's face it - if you are one of those dry types who just couldn't find a way to get a kick out of Johnny Depp's portrayal of Captain Jack Sparrow in the previous two installments (even if, like me, you're not normally particularly keen on Hollywood movies) well mate, no point going to see this one either. Savvy? For the record, At World's End was excellent in all the ways one would expect such a movie to be excellent - though it is kind of a shame it was left so wide open for a fourth chapter.

Arriving at Imperial Cinema to watch the movie (far and away the best cinema to see such Hollywood films in Copenhagen) one thing did catch me by surprise: I had no idea that there was a whole 'pirate' cult thing emerging in the wake of Pirates of the Caribbean. Seriously, there were quite a number of 'pirates' in the audience at Imperial. Many complete with plastic swords. Is it just Denmark?

If I had a better mobile phone, the pictures I tried to take of a few of them might have actually been worth posting. Instead, you just have to take my word for it - the 'pirates' really were out last night in, well, all the force they could muster.

by: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson200@gmail.com)


basketball playing boys and girls at lunchtime - near a private muslim school in Nørrebro in Copenhagen...

Muslim headscarves have become a rather hot subject of late around Denmark.

Recently, there was the case of Enhedslisten parliamentary candidate who suggested she would wear her headscarf in parliament if she was elected an MP.

It's not only Denmark. Headscarves have become quite a political issue around Europe. In France, they're banned in public schools.

Yet the idea of passing such laws, in Denmark and elsewhere, just don't quite seem right. It smacks of intolerance and ignorance, and issues like censorship come to mind as not exactly unrelated ones.

A few points.

First, a bit about the comment, contributed helpfully by the leader of the Danish Racist Party Dansk Folkeparti, that Muslim headscarves should be banned in Denmark.

Um, why?

Yes, we all understand that in many Muslim countries the rights of women have been thoroughly and appallingly trampled on. However in Denmark, this is quite simply not the case.

It's like banning pink button shirts because somewhere in the world pink button shirts are worn by oppressed people. In short, it's a pretty unprogressive viewpoint to take.

There has also been much talk in the Danish media about the childcare worker who wanted to wear a burqa to work.

This is a far more sensitive issue then the previous one, and I'm going to take a qualified position on this one that many will probably disagree with. Though I intensely dislike the idea of a woman feeling there is a need for them to cover her face for any religious or cultural reasons, I haven't seen the evidence to demonstrate that such a covered woman couldn't nonetheless be a successful and competent childcare worker. I'm doubtful that it exists.

Still, this has been the conclusion of Danish prime minister Anders Fogh Rasmussen, who has clearly stated that children should be able to see the faces of those who take care of them, and thus childcare workers in Denmark should not wear burqas.

As I said, I'm not entirely sure about the merits of that one, though there may well be something to it.

Because I can't help but think that having young children in contact with such a person is a clear acknowledgment that every person in the world is different, and in countless ways. It might just help them as they grow older and are truly confronted by just what this really means.

This seems more progressive then simply trying to create an environment as neutral, though entirely unrepresentative, as possible. And given that a fair number of burqa-wearing women can be seen walking the streets of Denmark everyday, for example around Nørrebro in Copenhagen, well, it really is a reality that is pretty close to home.

Still, I acknowledge that I may have to revisit my views on this one in the future.

And in the meantime, I'd just love to see someone like Kate Moss popularise some sort of muslim-inspired headscarf or burqa for all occasions that suddenly became the rage for young western women everywhere to wear anytime they felt like it. She could be just the one to do it, judging by the current success of her TopShop line of fashion.

by: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)



It's time to return to the subject of Christiania, the 'hippy enclave' in Copenhagen that has existed since the early 1970's. Since writing the last article about Christiania for this blog over two years ago, Getting the Christiania vibe...or not, plenty has happened, though little has changed.

Christiania hit the news once again last week, thanks to the actions of the police who moved in unannounced to knock down an abandoned building there. To be clear about my view on things, there are a few occasions when police presence is required in Christiania. Probably about 5% of the occasions when they actually show up there.

It's good business for the police, at the behest of the authorities who give the orders, to carry out these sorts of muscle-flexing actions - show up and tear something down - since it tends to provoke a few locals, along with the various outsiders who take an interest in these things (and in particular the ones always eager for a chance to perpetrate various violent activities in the name of protest). This in turn give the police and the relevant authorities a justification for the continual (and otherwise purposeless) patrols of the area, and the rather significant chunk of change spent on them. Because without such actions, more people around Copenhagen might be inclined to question whether this was really the best use of budget money.

At least all that budget money spent over the past 3 years by the police patrolling Christiania hasn't been entirely misspent. The police have managed to attain the distinction of being basically the greatest (and most consistent and persistent) causers of unwelcome nuisance and disturbances in Christiania over this period of time. Call it a success, or just call it irony.

The residents of Christiania gamely battle on, as they have for over 30 years. Is there something worth protecting in Christiania? Is it really just a bunch of aging hippy squatters hanging on to a dying dream? There certainly is more to Christiania then first meets the eye.

While most outsiders, like myself, tend to see Christiania as a fairly cohesive collective of hippy types (and indeed this is how the residents are typically portrayed in the media), this description doesn't really stand up to a cursory stroll through the area.

Above all, it is easy to forget just how many families call Christiania home. Christiania is filled with families. Children of all ages can be seen running and cycling around, playing in gardens and so on. They seem pretty content and I would posit they have a pretty good life. So while it's easy to imagine Christiania as a bunch of long-term squatters, this stop being the case long ago. When hundreds and hundreds of people have invested decades building and maintaining the area, any pre-existing land claims - in this case government land that was abandoned over 30 years ago - become rather tenuous.


30 years of care: roof and window repairs in Christiania...


bikes and toys and lots of space - the perfect place for a family...

Christiania is really like a small city within Copenhagen, a city with its own distinct areas, each distinct from the others. Because Christiania can seem like such an incoherent and rather unkept place, it's easy to overlook the subtle and not-so-subtle differences that lie within.


there's treasure in that trash...um, maybe

The central part of Christiania is the commercial center. It's a relatively busy place - chaotic and full of diversity - particularly on sunny days and weekends. There is plenty of activity - restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, shops, museums, even a sauna, and much more.


the local vegetarian restaurant at Christiania - an excellent place for a simple, tasty meal

And, of course, there are the drug dealers selling hash and marijuana. Here one also finds a lot of people hanging around who just seem to be there because they really have nowhere else to go and nothing else to do. I suspect for many residents of Christiania, the central area is not a place they spend much time. Furthermore, I'm also suspect that many residents feel they have little in common with those who frequent and inhabit this part of town. But this is only a hunch.

Just like most urban centers, the commercial center of Christiania is not only for business - the density of residents living in this central area is relatively high, as well, as the housing mostly consists of small apartments in multi-story apartment buildings.


urban apartment dwellers...


and more apartments...



The way of life in the central area of Christiania is in total contrast to that of those living in the outlying areas. Or if you prefer, the more 'suberban' areas of Christiania.

Moving away from the central area of town, quickly the apartment blocks give way to one or two stories buildings and individual houses. There is still not a lot of personal garden space to be had, but at least there is garden space. It's more then most living elsewhere in Copenhagen have. Those living in these areas of Christiania are nonetheless within close striking distance of the central part of the area.


central living in Christiania...

Wandering further eastward, the area becomes more forested.



Here, most of the houses are close to the water, many with a view overlooking it. Those living here have significantly more peace, quiet and isolation then those in the more central areas of Christiania. Not coincidently, the most, ahem, idiosyncratic dwellings are found scattered along the paths. And it is also here that one can momentarily forget that a city called Copenhagen even exists.


'if the government ever takes our land, well, I'll just cut these ropes and float away'...


'...and I'll just take off into the heavens...'


'...maybe with him'.

Yes, even in socialist Christiania, there is are clear distinctions - not everybody can have the perfect piece of property for their home, some are luckier than others - depending upon what you're after, of course.





What is clearly evident that a good number of those living in Christiania have invested a hell of lot of time (and money) into their homes. And there are quite a few who haven't, as well.

In fact, Christiania is divided into two distinct parts. All that I have described until now would be one half - let's call it the mainland. The second half lies across the channel, linked by bridge with this mainland area. In this area, though there is much more space, groups houses tend to be clustered together. That is, what can be seen is several small sub-communities that lie within Christiania itself.


almost like a small town, set away from the bustle of the center...


you'd better like your neighbour, or get to pretty quickly...

While example of such sub-comminuties are evident all over Christiania, what is distinct about those found in the most eastern areas on the far side of the channel is the degree of isolation they have from the rest of Christiania. The area is incredibly calm and peaceful, with most dwellings overlooking the water. One gets the distinct impression that, if they chose, the residents in these areas need only rarely, if ever, show their face in the central areas of Christiania. While there are no cars to be found within Christiania, there is a parking area at the most eastern tip, meaning those living nearby can easily take their cars to work or drive to the various large supermarkets nearby in Amager (if they prefer this option to cycling).

Indeed, as one re-enters the central area of Christiania from these outlying areas, particularly on a warm and sunny day, one is immediately struck by all the noise and activity going on. It's quite a contrast to the tranquility of the outlying areas.