The Copenhagen Report

Interested in photography? Then chech-out the latest MyDenmarkTV.com - episode #51 where we meet the organiser of the extremely active Photo Copenhagen meet-up group, and interview the creator of the Copenhagen Photo Festival - which happened last week.

 
Episode #51 - MyDenmarkTV.com from MyDenmarkTV on Vimeo.

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. The snowy lakes in Copenhagen...but watch out for frozen ducks...

The Danish island of Samsø was subject of a recent highly complementary profile in The Guardian, focusing on the incredible 'green' approach being taken by the inhabitants of the Danish island, who are now living 'off-the-grid'. Yep, no mainland electricity, the island is self-sufficient thanks largely to wind and solar power.

I've visited the island a couple of times, both visits occurred a few years ago, and I've been planning to get back every since. Samsø is an island whose reality more-or-less matches the romantic images phrases such as 'island life' can conjure up (assuming those romantic images involve Northern-Scandinavian type islands, of course). I mean, Copenhagen is also on an island, and I sometime jokingly refer to the idea of 'island-life' when talking about Life in Copenhagen because frankly this is not the sort of 'island life' people typically think about when using a phrase like 'island life'.

On Samsø, there's basically one small town of note, with a couple other smaller ones not so much of note. The best bet is to bring a bike (or rent one) to get around - but leave yourself plenty of time as it will take more than a day trip to get the most out of the island. Beaches are everywhere, there are some fantastic camping spots, it's as idyllic as anywhere in Denmark, and, the real icing on the cake, the island produces some of Denmark's most outstanding fruit and vegetables. Bring a pocketful of coins and be sure to stop at the farm produce stands dotting the roads of the island during the summer months to grab some mouth-watering produce. For example, I will always remember the eye-opening experience that a fresh Samsø onion (yes, an onion...) once provided me. Since that fateful day, I have found myself only able to cast a condescending eye upon mere supermarket onions, such a fresh onion snob I have since become. Okay, I may be over-dramatising just bit, but really, they are damn tasty onions.

So anyway, check out the article and the stunning accompanying pics. It's the kind of piece - particularly the photos - that's so compelling that if you're in right frame of mind, you mind find yourself fighting the urge to book plane tickets to Denmark (and ferry tickets to Samsø).

Not that long ago, anyone going for a little bicycle ride along the lakes ('Søerne') in Copenhagen, which stretch from Vesterbro, past Nørrebro and all the way over to Osterbro, was greeted by very unfriendly gates and 'no cycling' signs. It looked exactly like this:


...obviously, not everyone agreed with the message

It was one of the most nonsensical cycling restriction in Copenhagen. Not only is are the lakes a great place to cycle, but with two enormously wide paths, one running right alongside the water, the other set about a meter higher set in from the water, there is more than ample enough space for both bicycles and pedestrians. But at long last, the restrictions are being lifted and finally the path along the lakes looks as it should. There are still a couple of fences up towards Osterbro, which I assume will disappear soon (or are being left to 'slow' bicycle traffic).


no more barriers or bicycle restrictions!

An amusing thing about this (above) picture is it is precisely the sight of a campaign an adamant local has been running every morning for the past few months, putting up a banner over the (former) barrier proclaiming the path along the lakes for pedestrians, then sitting herself at a chair on a table and thereby partially blocking the small entrance in the barrier where bikes and people could go through. Apparently a protest of the coming changes to along bicycles. I used to cycle by her on my way to work every morning.

Actually, I was even once (annoyingly) stopped by a tricky police officer positioned to catch the many, many people (like me) who chose to be, ahem, civilly disobedient when going along the lakes with a bicycle...the fine never did arrive in the post.

Incidentally, a fair way to judge of how the summer is going in Copenhagen, that is, if there has really been a summer at all, is to take a stroll along the lakes ('Søerne'). A hot summer not only means algae-coated green-tinged lakes, but also results in the lakes emitting a lovely stench. And judging things by this measure, it hasn't been such a bad summer around here. Fortunately the ducks seem to like it no matter what.




the lovely green Copenhagen lakes...

Yes, it true that not all Danes have blond hair and blue eyes.

The scene at Enghave Plads in Vesterbro last night as the Distortion Festival roared on. Blue skies and warm music. Priceless.


www.cphdistortion.dk

There isn't really such a thing as a classic Copenhagen flea market ('Loppemarked', in Danish). But if there was, it would certainly not be the one found in from of the yellow wall surrounding Assistens Kirkegaard along Norrebrogade every Saturday morning for the next few months. But there's no mistaking that it is indeed a flea market.

Nørrebro, as an area of colourful characters and great cultural diversity, is hardly representative of what typically is found elsewhere around Copenhagen, not to mention in the rest of Denmark. It is therefore hardly a coincidence that Nørrebro's Saturday morning flea market really pulls out in an amazingly diverse cast of characters - both a sellers and as buyers.

As one of the major veins running outwards from the center of Copenhagen, Nørrebrogade is a prime location for such a market. There are no shortage of those perusing for treasures. From elderly people in electric carts purring along the bike paths, stopping occasionally to haggle for one item or another, to those systematically trolling through the tables, and plenty who just happen to be passing by.

It couldn't be easier to get a table a table for your goods, if you're so inclined. Simply show up at Norrebrogade 92 between 7.30 and 8.30 any Saturday for the next few months, plunk down 200 kroner, and a 4.5 meter space along the wall is all yours for the next few hours - until 15.00 in the afternoon to be precise. It's a surefire way to meet many of these colourful and amusing characters.

So this is how your truly spent the first portion of Saturday, with literally a couple hours of sleep and barely staving off a hangover, thanks to a couple of enthusiastic friends who decided some time ago that they would make a day of it (and a pile of unwanted stuff in the corner of our apartment that was otherwise heading for the trash). In truth, we had a lot of fun.




displaying one's (former) personal taste in apparel...


Hidden treasure? An amusing little historical document
from the 70's, known and beloved to many, available from
a neighbouring stand...


the professional approach to running a flea market stand (though
certainly not ours): endless tools and other household items...






...and our little stand - one day only! No reasonable (or unreasonable)
offer turned down! (Incidently, the stuffed monkey never did sell, apparently
destined for the girlfriend's nephew's giant pile of toys, after all...)

A friend visiting town happened to be staying on the 19th floor of the SAS Radisson Hotel. The first time I've had the opportunity to have see this view - so I couldn't resist snapping this pic of the soon-to-be-opening Tivoli. Not a view of the place most people get on a regular basis.

And I should also mention that, much to my surprise, the interior of this famous Arne Jacobsen designed Copenhagen landmark is remarkably warmer, welcoming and more cheerful - not to mention very unique - than the military green (and not terribly welcoming) facade of the place.

Late Sunday afternoon (around 18.oo), Sankt Hans Torv. Spring is in the air.

The arrival of the Oslo ferry (in reverse gear) every morning just after 9.00 at the Nordhavn ferry terminal (departure daily at 17.00). Thank goodness the captain (he or she?) never misses.

It's the street art, graffiti and all the other 'noise', such as cultural spamming, ad jamming and so forth, that really brings a city to life, I've long believed. And Copenhagen has some fantastic murals, spread around the city. Incidently, notice the distinctly Copenhagen style street lights...

Or not. To follow up the last post, this was the scene in the heart of Nørrebro last evening. The same place that continues to take a whacking in the media owing to all the so-called rioting, protesting and such.

On the ice rink at Blågårds Plads last night as I cycled by, I was attracted by the sound of reggae music, and the sight of families and children skating and playing on the ice. A DJ was playing at a small stage set up on one end of the rink, and bright spotlights illuminated the ice. It was a great atmosphere.

Of course, this was a stark contrast to the portrayal of an unsafe area of the city, out of control and in the grip of violent and out of control gangs and 'rioters' and the like.

Unsafe? Dangerous? Yeah, if you slip on the ice and manage to crack your head open, perhaps.

Don't believe a word about Nørrebro being out of control these past few days - anyone talking such talk is talking from their ass. Nothing more, nothing less (as I mentioned in the previous post).

Central Nørrebro is probably the most vibrant, lively, diverse and generally amusing area of the city to hang out, and a great place to live (even if Vesterbro remains my personal favourite...). The worst part is that around Denmark, those who rarely, if ever, have set foot in the area have been fed such a nonsensically different view over the past days and months from the media. But what can you do?

Below: more scenes from the rink...

This is as good way a way to fill a Copenhagen Sunday as any, especially if it's one of those Sundays, as today was, when pretty much all of the shops are closed. Skating at Kongens Nytorv. Just show up and rent some skates - until 10 in the evening every night, 7 days a week. For the rest of this month and next.

As I've mentioned before, I have a soft spot for street art - and this one is a beauty. Covering a Nørrebro bench by Dronning Louises Bro (Queen Louise Bridge), what more needs to be said?

In all my years living in Copenhagen, until today I never noticed there was a Christmas tree market set up at Sankt Hans Torv at this time of year. The main streets of Vesterbro may be a little more festively decorated for December than Nørrebro, but it's nice to see a small sign of Christmas in this part of town...

Though I'm certainly not a photographer (and I certainly don't have a expensive camera), every now and then I get lucky and manage to take a shot or two that captures a moment in a way that almost matches how it was. Like this one during last nights distinctly colourful sunset, as the clouds rolled in and the sky briefly turned a distinct deep blue as darkness fell over Copenhagen.

by: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)



It's time to return to the subject of Christiania, the 'hippy enclave' in Copenhagen that has existed since the early 1970's. Since writing the last article about Christiania for this blog over two years ago, Getting the Christiania vibe...or not, plenty has happened, though little has changed.

Christiania hit the news once again last week, thanks to the actions of the police who moved in unannounced to knock down an abandoned building there. To be clear about my view on things, there are a few occasions when police presence is required in Christiania. Probably about 5% of the occasions when they actually show up there.

It's good business for the police, at the behest of the authorities who give the orders, to carry out these sorts of muscle-flexing actions - show up and tear something down - since it tends to provoke a few locals, along with the various outsiders who take an interest in these things (and in particular the ones always eager for a chance to perpetrate various violent activities in the name of protest). This in turn give the police and the relevant authorities a justification for the continual (and otherwise purposeless) patrols of the area, and the rather significant chunk of change spent on them. Because without such actions, more people around Copenhagen might be inclined to question whether this was really the best use of budget money.

At least all that budget money spent over the past 3 years by the police patrolling Christiania hasn't been entirely misspent. The police have managed to attain the distinction of being basically the greatest (and most consistent and persistent) causers of unwelcome nuisance and disturbances in Christiania over this period of time. Call it a success, or just call it irony.

The residents of Christiania gamely battle on, as they have for over 30 years. Is there something worth protecting in Christiania? Is it really just a bunch of aging hippy squatters hanging on to a dying dream? There certainly is more to Christiania then first meets the eye.

While most outsiders, like myself, tend to see Christiania as a fairly cohesive collective of hippy types (and indeed this is how the residents are typically portrayed in the media), this description doesn't really stand up to a cursory stroll through the area.

Above all, it is easy to forget just how many families call Christiania home. Christiania is filled with families. Children of all ages can be seen running and cycling around, playing in gardens and so on. They seem pretty content and I would posit they have a pretty good life. So while it's easy to imagine Christiania as a bunch of long-term squatters, this stop being the case long ago. When hundreds and hundreds of people have invested decades building and maintaining the area, any pre-existing land claims - in this case government land that was abandoned over 30 years ago - become rather tenuous.


30 years of care: roof and window repairs in Christiania...


bikes and toys and lots of space - the perfect place for a family...

Christiania is really like a small city within Copenhagen, a city with its own distinct areas, each distinct from the others. Because Christiania can seem like such an incoherent and rather unkept place, it's easy to overlook the subtle and not-so-subtle differences that lie within.


there's treasure in that trash...um, maybe

The central part of Christiania is the commercial center. It's a relatively busy place - chaotic and full of diversity - particularly on sunny days and weekends. There is plenty of activity - restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, shops, museums, even a sauna, and much more.


the local vegetarian restaurant at Christiania - an excellent place for a simple, tasty meal

And, of course, there are the drug dealers selling hash and marijuana. Here one also finds a lot of people hanging around who just seem to be there because they really have nowhere else to go and nothing else to do. I suspect for many residents of Christiania, the central area is not a place they spend much time. Furthermore, I'm also suspect that many residents feel they have little in common with those who frequent and inhabit this part of town. But this is only a hunch.

Just like most urban centers, the commercial center of Christiania is not only for business - the density of residents living in this central area is relatively high, as well, as the housing mostly consists of small apartments in multi-story apartment buildings.


urban apartment dwellers...


and more apartments...



The way of life in the central area of Christiania is in total contrast to that of those living in the outlying areas. Or if you prefer, the more 'suberban' areas of Christiania.

Moving away from the central area of town, quickly the apartment blocks give way to one or two stories buildings and individual houses. There is still not a lot of personal garden space to be had, but at least there is garden space. It's more then most living elsewhere in Copenhagen have. Those living in these areas of Christiania are nonetheless within close striking distance of the central part of the area.


central living in Christiania...

Wandering further eastward, the area becomes more forested.



Here, most of the houses are close to the water, many with a view overlooking it. Those living here have significantly more peace, quiet and isolation then those in the more central areas of Christiania. Not coincidently, the most, ahem, idiosyncratic dwellings are found scattered along the paths. And it is also here that one can momentarily forget that a city called Copenhagen even exists.


'if the government ever takes our land, well, I'll just cut these ropes and float away'...


'...and I'll just take off into the heavens...'


'...maybe with him'.

Yes, even in socialist Christiania, there is are clear distinctions - not everybody can have the perfect piece of property for their home, some are luckier than others - depending upon what you're after, of course.





What is clearly evident that a good number of those living in Christiania have invested a hell of lot of time (and money) into their homes. And there are quite a few who haven't, as well.

In fact, Christiania is divided into two distinct parts. All that I have described until now would be one half - let's call it the mainland. The second half lies across the channel, linked by bridge with this mainland area. In this area, though there is much more space, groups houses tend to be clustered together. That is, what can be seen is several small sub-communities that lie within Christiania itself.


almost like a small town, set away from the bustle of the center...


you'd better like your neighbour, or get to pretty quickly...

While example of such sub-comminuties are evident all over Christiania, what is distinct about those found in the most eastern areas on the far side of the channel is the degree of isolation they have from the rest of Christiania. The area is incredibly calm and peaceful, with most dwellings overlooking the water. One gets the distinct impression that, if they chose, the residents in these areas need only rarely, if ever, show their face in the central areas of Christiania. While there are no cars to be found within Christiania, there is a parking area at the most eastern tip, meaning those living nearby can easily take their cars to work or drive to the various large supermarkets nearby in Amager (if they prefer this option to cycling).

Indeed, as one re-enters the central area of Christiania from these outlying areas, particularly on a warm and sunny day, one is immediately struck by all the noise and activity going on. It's quite a contrast to the tranquility of the outlying areas.

I just love the spirit of Copenhagen. I really do. Even on a cloudy, not terribly warm day with a bit of rain, there's always plenty to make you smile and forget the weather. Like having an ice cream down at Nyhavn. After all the sun will shine again...

Never been to Copenhagen and wondering what it's like? Or maybe you're from here, and occasionally have to explain how it is to friends who aren't? Sometimes a picture (or a mural, in this case) really is worth a thousand words. Note the (real-life) not exactly blue sky above the building...yes, this is indeed Copenhagen!


am absolutely perfect Nørrebro mural...