Episode #49 of MyDenmarkTV.com is up...this one we shot in Fælledparken initially, but then had to add in some additional green-screening when thanks to some microphone problems we had during the shoot - but in end everything worked out, as we still ended up with loads of good 'film' from Fælledparken on May 1. We also took some time to answer a bunch of viewer questions in the last part of the episode.
One of my favourite areas in Copenhagen is, of course, Nørrebro. This video embedded below, produced by Wonderful Copenhagen (the official tourist agency of Copenhagen), is actually an excellent representation of the Inner Nørrebro area.
With my partners at MyDenmarkTV, we recently had a very informative meeting with the film production unit of Wonderful Copenhagen, to see if there were area in which we could co-operate together in the future. Wonderful Copenhagen has an impressive film and production unit, with the capacity to produce the highest-calibre productions. I would say the only limitation they face in terms of film and video production, is that they are obliged to produce infomercial-like productions, rather than personality-driven shows and clips. The problem is when producing in this 'infomercial' manner, it can be tricky to create a nuanced balance between real-life and propaganda, though I have to say that many of the videos I have seen by Wonderful Copenhagen do a pretty good job of striking the fair balance, and end up being fascinating.
This video about Nørrebro provides quite a realistic glimpse into the area.
So episode #40 of MyDenmarkTV.com is up - and I'll let you in on a little secret...a couple of the segments were in fact the very first segments that I filmed when I joined the show, so it was all new for me (and really it still is!). I was also fighting off a case of the flu during some of the filming, which didn't help matters...so we didn't manage to get quite as much humour in this one...but we'll be working hard on that in the future.
Episode #40 – MyDenmarkTV.com from MyDenmarkTV on Vimeo.
Unlike the last episode, this one is in the more traditional '5 segment' format that those who have dug into the shows archives are more familiar with. We continue to intensely discuss the format the show should take in the future, but personally I am much more comfortable with a looser more flowing format (like episode #39) that is less tied to segments. Something that is more 'storylike' and tied to a theme. That said, there is also value in having some structure. In future, there will probably be more of a mix of episodes taking one or the other format.
If you're living in Copenhagen and looking for food and entertainment ideas, you'll probably be interested in the last 2 segments in particular Nørrebro segment and Julie's museum tip. I'm a big fan of Ranees, the fantastic Thai restaurant at Blågards Plads (which I have previously reviewed here). Which is not to say the other segments, about joining a car sharing program and Danish Højskole's might not be interesting and useful for you, as well.
Anyway, hope you enjoy!
Not that long ago, anyone going for a little bicycle ride along the lakes ('Søerne') in Copenhagen, which stretch from Vesterbro, past Nørrebro and all the way over to Osterbro, was greeted by very unfriendly gates and 'no cycling' signs. It looked exactly like this:
...obviously, not everyone agreed with the message
It was one of the most nonsensical cycling restriction in Copenhagen. Not only is are the lakes a great place to cycle, but with two enormously wide paths, one running right alongside the water, the other set about a meter higher set in from the water, there is more than ample enough space for both bicycles and pedestrians. But at long last, the restrictions are being lifted and finally the path along the lakes looks as it should. There are still a couple of fences up towards Osterbro, which I assume will disappear soon (or are being left to 'slow' bicycle traffic).
no more barriers or bicycle restrictions!
An amusing thing about this (above) picture is it is precisely the sight of a campaign an adamant local has been running every morning for the past few months, putting up a banner over the (former) barrier proclaiming the path along the lakes for pedestrians, then sitting herself at a chair on a table and thereby partially blocking the small entrance in the barrier where bikes and people could go through. Apparently a protest of the coming changes to along bicycles. I used to cycle by her on my way to work every morning.
Actually, I was even once (annoyingly) stopped by a tricky police officer positioned to catch the many, many people (like me) who chose to be, ahem, civilly disobedient when going along the lakes with a bicycle...the fine never did arrive in the post.
Incidentally, a fair way to judge of how the summer is going in Copenhagen, that is, if there has really been a summer at all, is to take a stroll along the lakes ('Søerne'). A hot summer not only means algae-coated green-tinged lakes, but also results in the lakes emitting a lovely stench. And judging things by this measure, it hasn't been such a bad summer around here. Fortunately the ducks seem to like it no matter what.
the lovely green Copenhagen lakes...
A Blue flag of the Danish Outdoor Council in at Kamares, Sifnos in Greece
After spending the last 2 weeks in Greece, I figured it was as good a time as any to write a little article about clean water and swimming.
You've perhaps noticed Blue Flags on beaches, both around Denmark and elsewhere around Europe and the rest of the world. During a trip to Greece this summer, I was surprised to discover that the organisation that runs this Blue Flag Program is actually a Danish organisation based in Copenhagen - The Foundation of Environmental Education (FEE), or 'Danish Outdoor Council' (seems they are a bit confused themselves about just what name they would like to be referred to as...)
An unlikely sign to find on a sunny Greek island...
Surprise, surprise. Denmark is light years ahead of pretty much any other (non-Scandinavian) country when it comes to environmental issues. It's not coincidence that cars in Denmark cost about 3 times what they cost everywhere else thanks to the incredibly high taxes they are subject to and cycle lanes exist on pretty much every street found in Copenhagen and in cities elsewhere around the entire country (not to mention countless cycle paths connecting cities and towns).
There are beaches and marinas in 40 counties around the world participating in the Blue Flag program, at this point.
To digress away from blue flags, Copenhagen is one of the few major cities out there, at least at present, where it possible to swim in the channel the cuts through it. In most European cities (as is of course generally the case elsewhere as well), if there is a major river or channel or other body of water running through them (or nearby), you can be all but certain it's too polluted to swim in. The list of such places is long - the Thames in London, the Seine in Paris, and so on. But swimming in Copenhagen is no problem.
The authorities in Copenhagen had the grand revelation a few years ago that if the channel cutting through Copenhagen was clean enough, people might actually enjoy swimming in it. Who would have imagined that people might actually like to swim when it's hot and sunny out? It's kind of embarrassing that the authorities in other cities haven't come to a similar conclusion. Perhaps one day, someday, they'll also get it...
It all began about 6 years ago now, following a lengthy series of clean-up efforts that improved the water in the channel, with the addition of a handful of swimming areas (havnebåd) in the Copenhagen channel, and since then the dynamics of life along the channel - particularly at islands brygge - have changed dramatically. 
...the swimming area at Islands Brygge
People lounge on the grass in huge numbers, a number of new cafes have opened up, and on a hot spring or summer day (or even a warm one) the area swarms with life. In short, it's a fantastic place to be. A second swimming area is found on the other side of Fisketorv, the large and ugly shopping mall on the other side of the channel from Islands Brygge, and now connected by a pedestrian bridge.
It's pretty rare to find natural salt-water public swimming areas in the middle of a major city - in fact I can't think of another city where you find such a thing. If only there were more hot and sunny days in Denmark to actually use them.
...lounging on the grass at Islands Brygge
by: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)
It's time to return to the subject of Christiania, the 'hippy enclave' in Copenhagen that has existed since the early 1970's. Since writing the last article about Christiania for this blog over two years ago, Getting the Christiania vibe...or not, plenty has happened, though little has changed.
Christiania hit the news once again last week, thanks to the actions of the police who moved in unannounced to knock down an abandoned building there. To be clear about my view on things, there are a few occasions when police presence is required in Christiania. Probably about 5% of the occasions when they actually show up there.
It's good business for the police, at the behest of the authorities who give the orders, to carry out these sorts of muscle-flexing actions - show up and tear something down - since it tends to provoke a few locals, along with the various outsiders who take an interest in these things (and in particular the ones always eager for a chance to perpetrate various violent activities in the name of protest). This in turn give the police and the relevant authorities a justification for the continual (and otherwise purposeless) patrols of the area, and the rather significant chunk of change spent on them. Because without such actions, more people around Copenhagen might be inclined to question whether this was really the best use of budget money.
At least all that budget money spent over the past 3 years by the police patrolling Christiania hasn't been entirely misspent. The police have managed to attain the distinction of being basically the greatest (and most consistent and persistent) causers of unwelcome nuisance and disturbances in Christiania over this period of time. Call it a success, or just call it irony.
The residents of Christiania gamely battle on, as they have for over 30 years. Is there something worth protecting in Christiania? Is it really just a bunch of aging hippy squatters hanging on to a dying dream? There certainly is more to Christiania then first meets the eye.
While most outsiders, like myself, tend to see Christiania as a fairly cohesive collective of hippy types (and indeed this is how the residents are typically portrayed in the media), this description doesn't really stand up to a cursory stroll through the area.
Above all, it is easy to forget just how many families call Christiania home. Christiania is filled with families. Children of all ages can be seen running and cycling around, playing in gardens and so on. They seem pretty content and I would posit they have a pretty good life. So while it's easy to imagine Christiania as a bunch of long-term squatters, this stop being the case long ago. When hundreds and hundreds of people have invested decades building and maintaining the area, any pre-existing land claims - in this case government land that was abandoned over 30 years ago - become rather tenuous.
30 years of care: roof and window repairs in Christiania...
bikes and toys and lots of space - the perfect place for a family...
Christiania is really like a small city within Copenhagen, a city with its own distinct areas, each distinct from the others. Because Christiania can seem like such an incoherent and rather unkept place, it's easy to overlook the subtle and not-so-subtle differences that lie within.
there's treasure in that trash...um, maybe
The central part of Christiania is the commercial center. It's a relatively busy place - chaotic and full of diversity - particularly on sunny days and weekends. There is plenty of activity - restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, shops, museums, even a sauna, and much more.
the local vegetarian restaurant at Christiania - an excellent place for a simple, tasty meal
And, of course, there are the drug dealers selling hash and marijuana. Here one also finds a lot of people hanging around who just seem to be there because they really have nowhere else to go and nothing else to do. I suspect for many residents of Christiania, the central area is not a place they spend much time. Furthermore, I'm also suspect that many residents feel they have little in common with those who frequent and inhabit this part of town. But this is only a hunch.
Just like most urban centers, the commercial center of Christiania is not only for business - the density of residents living in this central area is relatively high, as well, as the housing mostly consists of small apartments in multi-story apartment buildings.
urban apartment dwellers...
and more apartments...
The way of life in the central area of Christiania is in total contrast to that of those living in the outlying areas. Or if you prefer, the more 'suberban' areas of Christiania.
Moving away from the central area of town, quickly the apartment blocks give way to one or two stories buildings and individual houses. There is still not a lot of personal garden space to be had, but at least there is garden space. It's more then most living elsewhere in Copenhagen have. Those living in these areas of Christiania are nonetheless within close striking distance of the central part of the area.
central living in Christiania...
Wandering further eastward, the area becomes more forested.
Here, most of the houses are close to the water, many with a view overlooking it. Those living here have significantly more peace, quiet and isolation then those in the more central areas of Christiania. Not coincidently, the most, ahem, idiosyncratic dwellings are found scattered along the paths. And it is also here that one can momentarily forget that a city called Copenhagen even exists.
'if the government ever takes our land, well, I'll just cut these ropes and float away'...
'...and I'll just take off into the heavens...'
'...maybe with him'.
Yes, even in socialist Christiania, there is are clear distinctions - not everybody can have the perfect piece of property for their home, some are luckier than others - depending upon what you're after, of course.
What is clearly evident that a good number of those living in Christiania have invested a hell of lot of time (and money) into their homes. And there are quite a few who haven't, as well.
In fact, Christiania is divided into two distinct parts. All that I have described until now would be one half - let's call it the mainland. The second half lies across the channel, linked by bridge with this mainland area. In this area, though there is much more space, groups houses tend to be clustered together. That is, what can be seen is several small sub-communities that lie within Christiania itself.
almost like a small town, set away from the bustle of the center...
you'd better like your neighbour, or get to pretty quickly...
While example of such sub-comminuties are evident all over Christiania, what is distinct about those found in the most eastern areas on the far side of the channel is the degree of isolation they have from the rest of Christiania. The area is incredibly calm and peaceful, with most dwellings overlooking the water. One gets the distinct impression that, if they chose, the residents in these areas need only rarely, if ever, show their face in the central areas of Christiania. While there are no cars to be found within Christiania, there is a parking area at the most eastern tip, meaning those living nearby can easily take their cars to work or drive to the various large supermarkets nearby in Amager (if they prefer this option to cycling).
Indeed, as one re-enters the central area of Christiania from these outlying areas, particularly on a warm and sunny day, one is immediately struck by all the noise and activity going on. It's quite a contrast to the tranquility of the outlying areas.
By: Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)
Following on the heals of Part 1 and Part 2 of this Istedgade series, the focus of this one will be the trendier end of Istedgade, let's call that 'upper Istedgade'. What could be referred to as 'lower Istedgade' (or 'Istedgade the Hooker' and 'Istedgade the Junkie') are areas of the street offering their own distinct set of nightlife possibilities - and these will be the subject of part 5 of this series...
Istedgade by night is pretty good, indeed. Bars and cafés abound. It's not wall-to-wall cafes or anything like that - that would in all liklihood prove to be hugely problematic. Furthermore, the target clientel at the establishment of Istedgade trendier places are not those planning to end the night in a mess of sloppy drunkiness (even if a good few end up this way, nonetheless). There are other areas of Copenhagen where those less capable of handling a few drinks with dignity tend to frequent, which is a good thing for Istedgade. This is not at all to suggest that this makes Istedgade a quiet place by night. It's certainly not.
Along upper Istedgade, there are a fair number of generally unpretentious alternatives for having a quiet drink or less quiet drink.
Until recently, Cafe Riga, with it’s laid back atmosphere and underground music was the place to hang - but an ownership change some months ago, apparently provoked by complaining neighbours, has, as if a neutron bomb exploded, left the walls (and furniture) intact but sucked the life right out of the place. The fantastic underground music and excellent local DJ’s have disappeared (along with the atmosphere they largely were responsible for creating). Still, Riga’s comfortable chairs and couches remain a pleasant option for whiling away a few quiet hours in the early evening.
Cafe Riga today...a rather unpretentious welcome
A better bet, if hip and trendy is your thing (and Carlsberg is not), would be Boutique Lize. Only open evenings from Wednesday to Saturday, Boutique Lize serves a variety fine beers (mostly foreign) while the highly competent bartenders happily serve up a wide assortment of cocktails - some of the better ones in town. A glass of ‘Brugs’, a tasty Belgian offering available on tap, or a mojito (arguably one of the best in Copenagen) are both particularly recommendable.
Then there are a couple of Istedgade’s longstanding institutions of alcohol consumption and chatter – Bang and Jenson and McKluuds.
While Bang and Jensen has always managed to effortlessly maintain an image of laidback, hipster-like cool (and rarely lets you down on any night of the week, even late in the evening on Sunday), McKluuds fits quite a different description. It is all 'Copenhagen bodega' - though one of the more accessible ones. By all means drop by McKluuds for a very cheap beer and a free game of pool, but not for the atmosphere.
Bang and Jensen by day - still pretty busy
Bang and Jensen by night - even busier and rarely a let-down...
McKluuds...always cheap and always...well, cheap...
The place that could take the prize for trendiness would be Strassen - and maybe it does in a parallel universe somewhere else. Unfortunately in this one, it doesn't quite make it. Consistently apathetic service (and a really nasty batch of raw burgers served up to us several months by a cook in the kitchen who apparently was a little overzealous about trying to close the grill down early for the night) has put Strassen way out of favour in my books. Still, when the bartenders are in the mood, they are capable of mixing up quite a tasty cocktail. And Strassen does get the prize for the most amusing fishtank in Vesterbro - a large tank built into the wall with a huge mural picture of Istedgade laid out behind it.
Another unpretentious possibility would be Simpelt V (across from Riga). Doing it's best to take over from where Riga left off when it changed owners, they still haven't quite got the music issue down to a science at Simpelt V, but they're kind of trying. It does look pretty hipster, what with all the vinyl hanging on the walls and the pleasantly comfortable seating.
Simpelt V - hidden behind the bikes and graffitti...
An untested newcomer is Malbeck, an establishment billing itself as an Argentian Wine bar. We'll see if this one flies, in time.
And still more newcomers will surely arrive in the area over the next months.
But what if you're hungry (you may be asking by now)? Well, that's up next in Part 4...
by Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)
The previous article (A stroll down Istedgade (part 1): Is this the seedy or trendy heart of Vesterbro) introduced an allegorical character, a schizophrenic named 'Istedgade' who it was claimed would star in an upcoming Woody Allen movie (a film apparently attracting a quite a significant 'buzz')...so that is where this article picks up. Got it?
welcome...
Istedgade the Hipster is unquestionably the most alluring of schizophrenic Istedgade's personalities.
First, about hipsters - in case you are not one but were thinking maybe you could be, or you are one and don’t know it, or you know you are one but are simply in denial. A hipster could loosely be defined as one who distains the mainstream - known to coldly yet vigorously reduce anything possibly fitting into any mainstream categorisation to kitsch and unworthy. With rare exceptions, they are rather skinny - 1 or 2% excess body fat kind of skinny, Mick Jagger skinny. They have complicated hair, just might be gay (or not entirely heterosexual) and of course, there are the tattoos. And if it’s not indie, underground, literature, music, film or some other sort of artform, it’s probably not that interesting. So while a lot of people could claim to be halfway there, one must be quite a determined breed to truely earn the title.
Meaning that 'Istedgade the Hipster' is a very specific sort of being - one quite in contrast to the other parts of its (schizophrenic) personality.
most certainly a hipster magnet...
Returning to our allegory (from Part 1) of Istedgade as the schizophrenic star of a Woody Allen film, let's talk about what happens in the film. Istedgade the Hipster spends much time on the couch in therapy (being a Woody Allen flick and all).
The opening scene (set in the office of Istedgade's long-time analyst):
Istedgade the Hipster (probably a 'he' but possibly a 'she') is lying on the couch complaining, agonising that in spite of their loud and continual protestations, he (or she) has become an object of fascination - the subject of the relentless and unforgiving talk of the masses. And this Istedgade the Hipster finds to be a terrible and rather soul-destroying plight. With amusing self-awareness, this fictional but ultra-cool hipster character worries that this film in which he (or she) is starring just may be Woody Allen's biggest film since Manhatten - a huge moneymaker. The buzz surrounding the film is ceaseless, and the very thought has left Istedgade the Hipster feeling more than mere anxiety. Istedgade the Hipster simply distains being associated with it all - this mainstream attention. Yet it seems there is no escape.
Rather, it has provoked a serious identify crisis within Istedgade the Hipster, one that could turn ugly (and into something more existential in nature).
So we return to the real world, briefly, once again.
A bit about Woody Allen movies. Woody Allen movies are always full of mainstream movie elements – the main characters are always Hollywood actors, the plot twists are often straight out of Hollywood and the endings are, more often then not, happily ever after. Of course, happily ever after in that trademark bizarre Woody Allen kind of way.
However, in spite of all this, they really are not quite mainstream movies. As stories, they have too many schizophrenic quirks. Instead, they stand apart, a brand of their own. They have this odd, hard to quantify, hipster-like shell that over time has proven quite resistant to penetration from the outside. Because in Woody Allen films there is basically always something different.
And in this way, they are just like Istedgade. Chalk full of, well, something different.
So the thing with Istedgade is that there is a risk that with all the attention it continues to attract (in it's coolness), and with its popularity continuing to soar, it just might cease being something different and instead become rather normal - just another not-so-distinct area of Copenhagen. If the graffitti should start to disappear (there's a fair bit of it at present), it will be more than a mere hint of what might be happening.
Now I'm not saying this is destined to happen, but surely sooner or later the chain stores and big money will get a whiff of it's potential and swoop in, no? And should this happen, as the composition of the shops and businesses shifts - Istedgade as we now know it will be no longer.
And should this turn of events take place, it will surely be the end of Istedgade the Hipster.
But we're not there yet. For now, Istedgade the Hipster thrives, genuinely non-mainstream (among many other identities as well, of course). The warmly welcoming local ecological bakery for bread, the numerous local design shops (mentioned in the previous article) for clothes, shoes and an assortment of other boutiques offering furnishing and other gadgets and gimmicks.
the local ecological bakery
funky light for the living room, anyone?
no brand names here...
or here...
or here...
or here...
or here, or here...you get the idea...
Yet when it comes down to it, of course, it's all very interesting, even if it's not quite a comprehensive in the range of 'stuff' you can find - you may need to leave Istedgade to get the rest of the 'things' you need.
And, of course, there's also Istedgade the Kitsch to contend with.
Istedgade the Hipster, of course, grudgingly accepts that lingering presence out of necessity, probably because Istedgade the Kitsch just isn't threatening in the way the mainstream stuff is. Istedgade the Kitsch is merely a bizarre and quirky part of Istedgade's schizophrenic personality.
Istedgade the Kitsch takes the form of a few peculiar shops selling an array of items presumably appealing to the (fairly numerous) immigrants of the area who have yet to acquire any sort of Danish design tastes and sensibilities. These immigrants are one of the features of the street that give it so much more character than other less diverse areas of the city.
welcome to the palace of kitsch...
see anything you like?
The junk being peddled at these kitsch places would make a great gag gift, if you’re looking for that.
But kitsch bits aside, Istedgade the Hipster has continued to grow stronger month by month over the last years - and this is without having even mentioned what is arguably Istedgade's the Hipster's best side - and that is the night time.
And this will be the subject of the Part 3, up next...
by Tim Anderson (timothyanderson2005@gmail.com)
Sometimes seedy, with it’s graffiti and hookers, other times trendy with it’s design shops and cafés, Istedgade is a street of complex character. It’s not so easy to put a finger on just what Istedgade is and where it is heading in the future - which makes it a fascinating spot on the Copenhagen map. But the next several articles (yep, this is the first of five of them) will try to.
Allow me to make a slightly abstract comparison between Woody Allan movies and Istedgade, the street in Vesterbro with, well, many faces. I love Woody Allen movies. Istedgade, like many a character in many a Woody Allen film, happens to be of a slightly neurotic temperment. This is pretty evident when strolling along the street and perhaps that’s part of the reason why I like it so much.
despite the street art, it's hardly scary...
Of the two main (almost parallel) roads that transverse Vesterbro and infuse the area with life, Istedgade and Vesterbrogade, it is Istedgade and its colourful history, that is most known around Copenhagen, but also around Denmark. As home to trash, treasures, junkies and hipsters, truly it’s got a bit of everything. You could say. Perhaps it's missing a few things.
fitting right in on Istedgade...
If Istedgade were a person, it would be schizophrenic with a few personalities. One personality would be a lover of design objects, another surely a hooker and still another most certainly a self-styled hipster (with a few tattoos). There would also be the anti-hipster, a lover of all things kitsch. The self-styled hipster would in all likelihood be the favourite guise these days.
need some ink done? choice abounds around Istedgade...
So just for fun, let’s imagine this schizophrenic person really exists, an allegorical character. For simplicity, let’s call them ‘Istedgade’, shall we? And just to make it really fun, let's also assume this person ('Istedgade') happens to be a character in an upcoming Woody Allen film. And let's imagine there is quite a buzz surrounding this 'Istedgade' character - that is, this character is attracting a lot of attention. Sound interesting...
Our ‘Istedgade’ character, with this complex personality, should fit in just fine into the said Woody Allen movie. Admittedly, it wouldn’t be an entirely typical Woody Allen-type character (most aren’t schizophrenic, after all), however as many Woody Allen characters do, Istedgade would surely have an analyst. That is, Istedgade would be in therapy.
In particular, the 'hipster' portion of Istedgade's multiple personalities would be greatly disturbed by a few things - in particular the temperment of the other personalities with which it must co-exist, as well as by thoughts of just what the future holds for it.
Back to the real world, for a moment.
One can't help wondering, when wandering through Vesterbro and then along Istedgade, just how long things on Istedgade will remain as they are. After all, Vesterbro as a whole (and particularly the street Vesterbrogade) has transcended it’s ‘worker quarters’ past, even if bits of evidence still remain (like the many identical and rather small two room apartments, some still without showers). Housing prices have risen rather wildly over the past 10 years (as they have all over the Copenhagen), plenty of big chain stores have moved in (Blockbuster's 7/11's, national chain stores), while fashion and trendiness remain the current buzzwords, particularly in Vesterbro's less obvious corners. Still, entrepreneurial enterprise of all sorts thrives everywhere.
Yet within Vesterbro, Istedgade has thus far taken a different direction. It seems even quirkier still - more independent.
On Istedgade, the bigger chain stores and pretty much any serious corporate presence remains conspicuously absent. With the exception of a lone Nordea bank branch (not even a single bank machine elsewhere along the road) and a small outlet of a national appliance chain (Punkt), both at the farthest reaches of the street, and a lone 7/11 at the start of Istedgade near the train station, corporate presence is minimal.
Perhaps it is that old lingering fear of 'Istedgade the Hooker' and 'Istedgade the Junkie' (both of whom who will be introduced in an upcoming article) that is keeping the chain shops, chain restaurants and chain coffee shops and cafes away?
In place of Blockbuster, there’s an independent video shop ('Yvonne's'). In place of fast food outlets, there are numerous schwarma shops and a few pizza joints (everyone has their favourites, but I would suggest one of the best being Konya Kebab, owing to its a charcoal barbeque – something very rare for a Copenhagen schwarma shops). In place of dominating corporate chain store clothing shops in other areas of Copenhagen, such as H&M, Istedgade hosts plenty of more independent and oftentimes nearly anonymous design and trendy clothing and gadget shops - some rather expensive, others less so. There are a few excellent restaurants, a good number of interesting cafes and a handful of independent bakeries.
a kebab straight of the barbeque...
random funky stuff...
yes, it is...and you can buy the sign...
But Istedgade is no longer keeping quite the same low profile it once was, and it's former reputation as a seedy place (though still alive in well among those who haven't ventured into the area in recent years) is quickly fading away (once you leave the train station area, that is).
In any article focussed on Vesterbro, attention is increasingly focussed in particular on the perceived 'trendiness' of the Istedgade - at least the upper portion of Istedgade.
the local skateboard shop
To return to our schizophrenic Woody Allen character 'Istedgade', and in particular the 'hipster' slice of its personality. The current trendiness of Istedgade (the street) is largely the sort of trendiness that eschews the mainstream - and that's the sort of trendiness that makes 'Istedgade the Hipster' (this schizophrenic persona of our Woody Allen character) tick. In fact, it is why 'Istedgade the Hipster' exists at all. So the fact that this perceived trendiness is attracting ever increasing attention tends to make 'Istedgade the Hipster' feel, well, threatened. How long can it last?
Istedgade - is it really just another typical street in Copenhagen?
But all of this is just a sort of introduction. This (imaginary) Woody Allen character 'Istedgade' (and it's threatened 'hipster' persona) will be the focus of the next entry. Along with another slice of its schizophrenic personalities, 'Istedgade the Kitsch'.
It's right here - A stroll down Istedgade (Part 1): Is this the seedy or trendy heart of Vesterbro?
And for a bit more of an introduction to Vesterbro in general, At the heart of Vesterbro.
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